Frequently Asked Questions

Why Do We Need Walkoff Mats?

Minimizing Maintenance with Mats

In hospitals, schools, hotels, offices, restaurants, theaters and industrial facilities, mats are the first defense to stop dirt and moisture from entering the building. Mats filter these contaminants from entering the facility saving hundreds even thousands of dollars a year in excessive cleaning costs and damage to interior floor surfaces.

 

Consider These Facts

• 70% to 80% of dust, grime and dirt in a building is tracked in from the outside on people’s feet – permanently damaging floors.

• One square yard of carpet can accumulate one pound of dirt a week – twice that in inclement weather.

• It is estimated that the cost to find and remove a single pound of dirt from a building can run in excess of $600 in cleaning costs. As few as 150 people entering a facility can track in one pound of dirt in a 5 day work week costing over $30,000 dollars annually to remove.

• By utilizing high performance entrance matting of at least 10″ to 15′ as recommended by the U.S. Green Building Council and the Carpet and Rug Institute you can capture as much as 85% to 95% of contaminants saving maintenance dollars and protecting building assets.

 

An Effective Mat Program is the Answer

Entrance mats are the most effective way of stopping dirt and moisture at the door and keeping building maintenance costs to a minimum. They are also effective internally in high traffic areas or at service wipe-off regions such as factory entrances, entrances from kitchens to restaurant dining areas, freight elevator areas, office hallways, etc. Mats are used throughout facilities in numerous other capacities where safety is a must and anti-fatigue comfort is essential to the health and well being of employees. Mats are also an excellent way to project a positive company image or as a message mat to convey messages to employees or customers.

 

 

 

Why Would You Choose a Non-Alcohol Hand Sanitizer?

Troubling Trend in Teens Drinking Hand Sanitizer

According to the Los Angeles Times: Six teenagers have shown up in two San Fernando Valley emergency rooms in the last few months with alcohol poisoning after drinking hand sanitizer, worrying public health officials who say the cases could signal a dangerous trend. Some of the teenagers used salt to separate the alcohol from the sanitizer, making a potent drink that is similar to a shot of hard liquor. All it takes is just a few swallows and you have a drunk teenager…

 

To avoid potential problems with the misuse of hand sanitizer, consider purchasing foam sanitizer instead of gel hand sanitizer

 

 

 

How Do You Know What Type of Can Liner to Choose?

High Density Bag

High Density Bags are great for paper and non-rough objects under moderate transport conditions. Example: These liners are very strong and handle higher load capacities than LLD liners, but are less resistant to tears once punctured. Suggested applications: • Cans w/out rough edges • Paper • Paper plates/cups • Food • Dirt • Grass • Rags/Cloth items • Smooth heavy object • Great for office waste baskets

Approximate Gauge (thickness) • Light 6 – 9 Mic • Medium 10 – 12 Mic • Heavy 13 – 14 Mic • Extra Heavy 15 – 17 Mic

 

Low Density Bag

Linear Low Density Bag is recommended for rough objects under tough transport conditions. Example: These liners are very strong and are more resistant to tearing, but handle lower load capacities than Hi-D liners. Suggested Low Density applications: • Sticks & rough yard trimmings • Metal w/ sharp edges • Nails & Bolts • Objects w/ rough corners or protrusions • Small rocks • Plastic eating utensils • Abusive transport conditions • Food w/ rough edges (ex: crab legs) • Glass Bottles

 

Trash can liners are usually an afterthought at most places of business. A business either purchases the same can liner they have forever because the item number to reorder is easily accessible or because they don’t know the right questions to ask their vendor to ensure they have the proper can liner.  Did your vendor talk you into a great sale on a can liner that doesn’t fit your application?

 

 What are the proper questions to ask or explore for your needs?

What type of waste is being collected?

Have your can liners ever ripped? There is a chance you had a high density liner in a receptacle that sharp objects were being placed in that could have caused the tearing.  This indicates the improper usage of a high density liner in an application where liner low density bags are the proper solution. Side note: If you are placing sharp objects into a low density bag and it is still ripping, changing to a heavier or thicker bag won’t prevent puncturing.

 

In use cases where light waste like paper, cups and materials typical of an office environment are present a high density liner would be the proper choice. Using a linear low density liner or a liner that is too thick or heavy for the waste inside would raise costs unnecessarily.

 

How long before the container is emptied?

In many cases containers are emptied rather frequently resulting in a light total weight of waste in the liner at the time it’s emptied. This causes companies to spend too much money on liners with a mil thickness or micron that is too heavy duty for their needs.

 

What size is the receptacle?

Many times people purchase liners that are too large for the receptacle. Why do they do this? Often times it’s easier to buy the next size larger liner instead of sourcing the proper size. While easier to empty it causes too much free space in the liner, which raises the cost.

 

Another factor to consider is the sustainability of the liners you purchase. Biodegradable can liners are available that break down in a landfill much quicker than traditional plastic liners that take years to break down, if they do at all.

How Do You Choose a Floor Pad?

Industry Standard Pad Colors have been established to differentiate the pad for the appropriate use and provide the best results. The general rule of thumb is the darker the color pad, the more coarse the pad is.

 

Choosing the right floor pad saves time and money. Using the wrong floor pad could result in permanent surface scarring and costly repairs. Below are some basics on the best floor pad for the right application.

 

What’s the difference between a Synthetic Floor Pad vs. Natural Floor Pads?

Synthetic floor pads like those made of nylon and polyester are best for low speed scrubbing or stripping with wet solutions. They can also be used for burnishing, but it will require additional scrubbing to remove black marks and scratches to provide the proper gloss.

 

Natural pads or pads made from natural fibers like animal hair, coconut and walnut create a coarser pad, which is ideal for burnishing.

Did You Know …

  • Microfiber pads absorb dust when cleaning and burnishing, which helps control air quality, making them ideal in health care facilities, schools and other heavily populated buildings.
  • Use floor protectors on furniture. One inch diameter protectors are recommended.
  • Floor pads with a high content of hair can produce a burning hair odor when used with high-speed applications.
  • Foot traffic can create micro abrasions and make your floor look hazy and dull. Use a high speed burnishing pad. The pad heats and micro sands the floor to give it that wet glossy look.
  • Floor pads that are not centered on the machine will make it hard to control.

Can You Give Us Some Carpet Cleaning Procedures?

Pre-treat – For best results pretreat carpets with a nonphosphate Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI)-approved cleaner. Be sure to treat the entire carpet evenly, 1 quart of solution per 1000 sq. feet (or 1 gallon for about 4 classrooms) is often enough (follow manufacturer’s instructions).

 

Stop bonnet cleaning – Pre-treating a carpet and using a good carpet extractor eliminates the need to loosen embedded dirt by carpet bonneting. Bonneting takes a lot of time and effort – resources that can be used to extract more dirt out of the carpet.

 

Extraction – In most cases, extract with clean water only. The newer extractors agitate carpet fibers better and have a higher rate of water extraction than the older machines, leaving the carpet cleaner and dryer. For deep cleaning, extraction should be slow and measured. It is best to overlap the carpet you have just cleaned by at least 6 inches on each pass.

 

Low Moisture Extraction Cleaning-Some manufacturers offer an option that allows you to Low Moisture clean.  This option allows you to reduce the water used from about 1 gpm to about 0.2 gpm.

By simply turning the knob to the “Low Moisture” setting the flow

Everything else remains the same except for two things;

The carpet dries in under 60 minutes

You can clean forever on one tank of water – 60 minutes on

 

Spotting – Summer carpet spotting can be done using a wand and extractor. Good extraction will eliminate the need for heavy spotting. Don’t waste a lot of time on ink and other stains that won’t come out. Though unsightly, ink stains do not harm indoor environmental quality as much as a dirty carpet. You will do more to improve indoor air quality by spending more time extracting carpets and less time working on an ink stain that you will never completely get rid of anyway.

 

Drying – Even in the summer, drying carpets can be a challenge. And even using extractors with a high water recovery rate, carpets will not dry quickly and completely without some help. High volume drying fans with open windows and doors is one method. If you can smell wet carpet the day after you have cleaned it, you have not properly dried the carpet. A good guide is the two-hour rule; give freshly-extracted carpets at least two hours (preferably more) of carpet fan time. This means rotating fans to freshly cleaned carpets every two hours. This also means that you should stop extracting carpets two hours before the end of the shift. Follow these rules and you will have dry carpet sooner.

 

Equipment Cleanup and Maintenance – After you have finished cleaning carpet for the day, you should clean all carpet equipment. Extractors simply do not work well when jets are plugged, when water is left in the solution tank, and when waste tanks, hoses, wands and vacuum shoes are not cleaned. Be sure to use a de-foamer in the waste tank.

As part of equipment cleanup, always drain the solution tank. It is better to start extracting with a fresh tank of water than water that has been sitting in the tank stagnating for who knows how long. Better yet, go with a tankless extractor that pulls fresh water from a tap and drains to a sink.

Carpets like it hot! Fill your solution tank with hot water, a natural degreaser. You will pull out more oily dirt with hot water and the carpet dries quicker too.

 

Go Slow, Clean Low!

For deep cleaning with a self-propelled extractor, always operate in the “Turtle” speed range. Carpet cleaning is nice, even better if done twice! If you can avoid the need to bonnet, the time saved can be used to extract heavily soiled carpets twice. You will often find nearly as much dirt extracted on the second pass as you did on the first.

The future of carpet care is all about keeping the dirt level in carpets low. The proven best practice is frequent and thorough vacuuming, and regular, deep carpet extraction.

How Do You Select a Traditional Wet Mop?

Selecting the Yarn Type for your Wet Mop

When selecting the yarn type for your wet mop, consider the following:

Cotton fibers are popular because of their low initial cost, limited shrinkage and great absorption. Cotton picks up two to three times its weight. Also, depending upon the type of mop you order, they can be designed to specialize in either everyday mopping or cleaning highly abrasive surfaces.

Rayon fibers have fast absorption. They are mildew resistant, lint less and dry fast. Rayon is designed to pick up six to seven times its weight but it has no retention capabilities and, therefore, is an excellent finish mop.

Blends combine all the advantages of several different fibers to provide the ideal balance of price, performance and appearance. These are highly absorbent. Blends pick up and hold six to seven times their weight. And, as a bonus, they require no break-in.

 

Selecting the Correct Wet Mop

When researching mop handles, you will need to decide if you want handles made of metal, plastic, wood or fiberglass. You will also need to decide if you want looped ends on your mop, cut ends, headbands or tailbands.

Looped ends add longer life and better performance to wet mops, also allows for an open more absorbent twist that does not lint, fray or unravel. This is ideal if you want to launder your wet mops.

Cut ends are popular because of their low initial cost. Functional and affordable, they are ideal for almost any application from general mopping to applying finishes.

Headbands are available in 1 1/4 inch and 5 inch widths.

Tailbands improve coverage control, enable the mop to cover a wider path saving time and labor, prevent tangling and permit laundering.

 

 

How Would I Maintain My Floor Equipment?

Daily Maintenance

1. Remove and clean pads or brushes. Never use soiled pads when cleaning. Replace pads when they become packed with residue.

2. Remove and clean debris from the float shut?off screen and drain saver located inside the recovery tank.

3. Drain and rinse tanks thoroughly

4. Inspect vacuum hose for any objects obstructing the air flow.

5. Raise squeegee and wipe blades with a clean cloth. Store squeegee in the raised position to prevent damage or setting of the blades.

6. Wipe down machine if needed. Use a nonabrasive, non solvent cleaner, or a clean damp cloth.

7. Recharge the batteries if needed.

 

Weekly Maintenance

1. Check battery water level in each cell of the batteries, and fill as needed. Always use distilled water to refill batteries. Batteries should be filled approximately 3/4″ to 1″ above the plates. Overfilling will cause the batteries to leak during charging. The charging process creates gas bubbles inside the battery, which effectively increases the volume of the electrolyte.

2. Clean battery tops to prevent corrosion.

3. Rotate brushes. Rotate the left to the right and right to left.  On cylindrical models rotate from front to back, or end to end if using different materials.

4. Drain and rinse tanks thoroughly. To thoroughly flush out any solution chemicals in solution line and valves, refill solution tank with a few gallons of warm clean water and run machine until tank is empty.

 

Monthly Maintenance

1. Check scrub head and squeegee lifting cables for wear and spring tension.

2. Check machine for water leaks and loose nuts and bolts.

3. Check to see if battery cables are tightened (Tighten if needed)

4. Check parking brake

 

Quarterly Maintenance

1. Call your local dealer for quarterly maintenance

 

Storing Machine

1. Flush the tanks out completely. To thoroughly flush out any solution chemicals in solution line and valves, refill solution tank with a few gallons of warm clean water and run machine until tank is empty.

2. Open the recovery tank lid to promote air circulation.

3. Raise brushes and squeegee.

 

Do You Have Some Hints on Vacuum Maintenance?

1. Unplug your vacuum cleaner before performing any maintenance on it. A vacuum cleaner that turns on unexpectedly while you are working on it can injure you.

2. Check the bag regularly and replace it when it is full. A vacuum cleaner bag that is only 1/3 full may be too full to clean efficiently. Remember that the air must pass through all the collected dust and debris, so a full vacuum cleaner bag means that the machine must work harder, or that it will not clean as well, or both. Look for a line on the bag and feel with your hand to determine about how full it is.  If a working vacuum cleaner misses debris on the carpet or leaves behind fuzz where there was none, that’s also a cue to check the bag.

3. Replace any vacuum bag that is 1/3 to 1/2 full. Read the directions on the vacuum cleaner, the bag, or in the manual. Regardless of the procedure, make sure that the bag is on all the way and secure, and that any clips or holders are in place.  Use the correct bag size and type for your machine. Empty the bin or tray on bagless models frequently. Most designs make it very easy to pop the bin out.

 

4. Clean the brush roll.

4-1. Also called a beater bar, this is the spinning brush underneath that brushes dirt out of the carpets.  Look under the machine and locate the brush roll. Generally, it will be across the front of the bottom. If it is full of hair, thread, or other debris, it is time to clean it.

4-2. Remove the bottom plate. This cover may have clips or latches, or it may have a couple of screws holding it in place. Don’t lose the screws.

 

4-3. Notice the direction that the brush roll goes in. Usually, there will be a belt on one side and a corresponding track or space on the brush roll for the belt.  This will help you to identify the direction.

 

 

 

4-4. Remove the brush roll. Generally, it will pull out of a slot on either end, then slide out from under the belt.

 

 

4-5. Use scissors or just your fingers to clean the brushes. They don’t need to be spotless, but you should remove any hair or string that is wrapped around the brush. Pay special attention to the ends near the bearings and to the area around where the belt engages. A seam ripper (you can get one at a sewing goods store) works very well to cut the thinnest of hairs and strings wrapped around the brush.

 

5. Clean and lubricate the bearings on the brush roll.

Spin the brush roll on its axle with your fingers, to verify that it spins freely. If it doesn’t, you may need to clean out the bearings more thoroughly, lubricate the bearings, replace the bearings, or replace the entire brush roll (in ascending order of expense).

Unscrew the cap on either end of the brush roll. You will need to hold the cap on the opposite end.

Remove any debris around and in the bearings. Before you take the bearings out, notice which way they went so you can put them back in correctly.

Remove the cap on the other end. Both caps are usually on one long axle, so you may need to hold the end of the axle still to remove the second cap. Clean and lubricate the bearing on the other end.

Replace both bearings in the direction that they were before and replace both end caps.

 

6. Check the belt for signs of wear, and replace it if it is worn.

Remove any cover plates on the bottom, as you would to clean the brush roll.

Compare the belt to an unused belt. If it is stretched out or narrower than the new belt, replace it.

 

Check that the belt is in the right place. If it has slid off the drive shaft on its own or shifted out of position, it is probably because it is worn and loose.

Look for cracks, unevenness, or melted or worn spots. Replace the belt every 6 months to 1 year, depending on how much use your vacuum cleaner sees. Remove the brush roll as above.
Slide the belt off of the pulley or drive shaft.
Slide the new belt on over the pulley or drive shaft.
Remove any large accumulations of debris from the air passages and the brush roll housing.

 

 

Replace the brush roll.
Put the brush roll back through the belt. It may be very tight.

 

 

 

 

Replace the brush roll in its slots. Make sure that the belt is still over both the brush roll and the drive shaft.

 

 

 

Replace the cover plates, reversing the process you used to remove them.

 

 

 

 

7. Replace or clean any filters on the vacuum cleaner. Many newer model vacuums have filters on the exhaust air to catch particles that remain in it. Read your manual to find out if yours has these, and clean or replace them periodically if it does.

 

 

 

If the filter is made out of foam or plastic, you may be able to rinse it clean. Make sure it is thoroughly dry before replacing it in the vacuum cleaner. If the filter is made out of paper or fabric, you may be able to shake or pound out the debris between replacements.

8. Check the hoses for clogs and obstructions. It doesn’t happen very often, but if you have lost suction, try pushing a broomstick gently through the hoses to dislodge any larger clumps of debris that are stuck. A hook made from bent coat hanger wire can also be used to pull out or loosen clogs.

Be careful not to pack clogs in even more tightly.

Handle a coat hanger wire carefully, or it could puncture the hose.

 

Do the following if you have a wet-dry vacuum:

Empty the bin regularly.

Replace or clean the filter periodically, according to how much you use the vacuum.

Know how to configure the vacuum for wet pickup, if you wish to vacuum up liquids. Make sure it is correctly configured for wet or dry use each time you use it.

 

Improve the life of your machines by using proper operating procedures, cleaning techniques, storage procedures and preventative maintenance.  Contact our office to schedule an in-service with our service department.  We can train users on factory recommended procedures and best uses.  We also offer a full preventative maintenance schedule that we can discuss with you.